My Hour on an Atoll

Where on this ring of tiny islands are we going to land?”  Looking ahead I see a thin green circle of land surrounded by beautiful light turquoise water.  The plane banks sharply to the left and as we descend the green turns into coconut palms, houses show through the trees, water differentiates itself into bands of varying shades of blue and the coral reef starts to show through the clear blue water.  Finally a stretch of land with a strip of black asphalt and a white stripe down the middle appears. We slowly glide down and glancing back and forth between the windows on either side of me all I can see is water and just below me only sand.  I notice a bulldozer that has pushed sand into piles at the end of the runway and a part of a broken  sea wall that has a temporary patch of sandbags keeping potential waves off the runway.  Touchdown! and we’ve just landed at Majuro Atoll International Airport. 

Nillson called several hours ago asking me if I wanted to ride the airplane that was heading to Hawaii for an engine change.  A Boeing 737-800 doesn’t carry enough fuel to make the trip from Guam so we will have to stop at the Majuro Atoll to refuel before continuing on the Honolulu for an overnight engine change. I’ve never seen an atoll so I jump at the chance; besides, being the only passengers on a flight to Hawaii for dinner sounded like a pretty good date night. 

After tossing a few clothes into an overnight bag and taking a quick nap we met the pilots at the airport for a 2 AM departure.  As employees we can ride without a cabin crew so on take-off Nillson and I were the only ones in the cabin. With nothing to see in the middle of the night we napped for a few hours until the flight crew let us know we were approaching Majuro.  At first a bit jealous when Nillson was invited to sit in the extra cockpit seat for landing I felt better when I was promised the seat on the return trip.  At the captain’s suggestion I sat on the left side of the plane and caught my first site of an atoll.  A jeweled emerald ring highlighted in turquoise lay sunning itself in the middle of the Pacific.  I couldn’t take my eyes off of the small green islands surrounded by white sand, some joined together while others were separated by a wash of blue water.   I stared out the window until the first group of islands disappeared from view and within a few minutes I caught a glimpse of another atoll, this time it was Majuro.  

"Who would think to put an airport on this strip of land in the middle of the Pacific.  It turns out, Majuro has been inhabited for at least 2000 years. The Germans used it as a trading post in the late 1800's before being invaded by the Japanese during WWI and then taken over by the Americans during WWII when it became a major forward naval base.  Under the control of the US as a Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands, Majuro is the administrative center of the Marshall Islands and became independent in 1986.   

Thankful the pilots were able to find the thin stretch of land that served as a landing strip I feel giddy with excitement at what I've just seen.  The ground crew pulls up a set of stairs so that we can get off the plane and while Nillson confers with the mechanic and the fueler, I follow the captain into the airport.  Surprised to hear the captain speaking the local language I manage to understand that he is asking permission for me to be off the plane and in the airport; this is international territory so even though it is a tiny island I should  go through customs and immigration if I want to officially get off the flight but we are only in transit.   It turns out that Jay, the captain was raised on Majuro so he speaks the language and seems to know everyone here.  We make our way to the lunch counter where the tuna sandwiches he called ahead to order are waiting for us. A seared slice of tuna, probably caught that morning no more than a few hundred feet away, was snuggled into a simple toasted bun with mayo and couldn’t have tasted better.  Much better than the 70% of the tuna caught here that will end up in Bumble Bee tuna cans.  Next we stop at the operations office where Jay jokes and chats with several ladies with long dark braids that reached past the smalls of their backs and with workers wearing flip flops and flowered shirts, with these laid back friendly people who are the heart of the airport operations.  He is looking for Paul who will make sure we will find tuna loin when we pass through on our return trip tomorrow.  Before going back out to the plane Jay shows me the handicraft shops where I buy some shell jewelry and a small, finely woven white basket made from the fronds of the local trees that had been torn into thin strips and bleached. 

When I ask Jay if he grew up in the area he says he isn’t so sure he’s grown up yet but that his father had come out to the island many years ago working as a liaison between the US and the island and that he had lived on many of the local islands. When I ask if he has enjoyed living here he tells me he enjoys living wherever he is.  When I ask where he likes to eat he tells me he likes “wherever I’m eating.”  Every day is a good day for him, he appreciates everything he does and has, and enjoys everyone he meets.  I love his outlook!  He may not look like a typical islander but the more people I meet here in the region the more I see that this is the local attitude.  Maybe more of us should spend time on the islands and learn to love life as it comes.

Soon we got word that the plane had been refueled and it is time to head out again.  As we walk back to the plane I take a last look around at the palm trees that surrounded the tiny terminal and at the beautiful soaring cloud formations rising over the end of the runway.   With only an hour here I didn’t have time to learn much about how life is lived on an atoll but if it gives the gift of appreciation then I want to come back to spend more time on this beautiful jewel that is quickly fading below us.

A Visit to the Pandas in Chengdu

A visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding was a special treat during our trip to Chengdu.  Although Nillson had meetings and wasn't able to take the time off I didn't want to miss the opportunity to visit these adorable creatures.  With a last name of Pan is was inevitable that Pandas were a favorite in our stuffed animal collection and I couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit them in person.  Not speaking a word of Chinese I was a bit intimidated to venture too far from town on my own so I hired a guide and driver to take me to the Research Base. For anyone planning a similar trip I would advise saving the money on a guide and taking a taxi directly to the park as its well organized for foreigners.  We chose to walk the half mile through the bamboo forest up to the research center but a tram is available to take you from the entrance to the area that houses the pandas.  The first building we visited was the nursery where we saw six two-month old pandas sleeping in a playpen.  I couldn't take my eyes off of them as some lay sprawled out stretching their legs behind them while others snuggled up curled into a little ball.

When I was finally ready to move on, we walked by several enclosures where we could watch and photograph the pandas as they played on  bamboo structures, climbed trees and snacked on bamboo. I especially enjoyed watching them as they seemed to ooze off the bamboo structure on their way to get lunch.  Slowly, one at a time, an adolescent panda on the bamboo structure would decide it was his turn to descend; lying down, either on his back or stomach, he would first look over the edge of the structure.  Then slowly one arm and then another arm would reach down for support on a cross beam.  Ever so slowly, the rest of the body slowly poured off the platform until the rear legs were all that was left on the platform.  Then while supporting himself with his front legs, the hind legs slowly slid off the platform until finally the entire panda was on the ground.  One by one they made their way down and out of sight behind a wall of bamboo.   At another enclosure we watched as the pandas ate and ate their fill of bamboo.  They looked so wonderfully relaxed as they reached up for a stalk of bamboo and then rolled onto their backs, almost lying down to chew on their food.  They have rather short digestive tracts only absorbing 20% of the nutrition available in their food so they are continuously eating between 25 to 85 pounds of bamboo per day depending on their size.

Having come this far, when I was presented with the opportunity to step into one of the enclosures and have some one-on-one time with the panda, I couldn't resist.  After donning a hospital gown and booties to protect the panda from germs the group might be bringing into the enclosure, the adult panda walked right up to a wooden bench and sat down awaiting her treat.  She seemed to love the apples and bamboo dipped in honey and happily let us sit there with her as one at a time we stroked her back and had our pictures taken with her.  I rubbed her neck and felt her lean back as she closed her eyes and seemed to relax.  I loved her fluffy yet bristly fur and thought to myself how reality seemed to blur with imagination as I remembered the cartoon Kung Fu Panda and all the stuffed animals we had at home; what a surreal experience this was!

Good Day for a Wedding

"How romantic!" I thought as I stepped onto the Bund on a rare clear blue day in Shanghai.  Posing at the railing overlooking the Huangpu River was a young couple dressed in a traditional white gown and tux.  As the wedding photography team fussed over hair, makeup and lighting, the tourist that had come to enjoy one of the most popular spots in Shangahai were busy with their own photographs. Families posed against the ultra modern skyscrapers across the river on the Pudong side while looking toward an older part of Shanghai's history.

The Bund is the section of Zhongshan Road that houses the many European styled buildings built in the early 1900's by financial and trading institutions from the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Italy, Belgium, the Netherlands, United States, Russia and Japan.  Imposing buildings in an old European style these buildings which I would soon learn make beautiful backdrops for Shanghai wedding photos.  On the Pudong side of the Bund are some of the world's tallest buildings, original creations showcasing the New China.

A few steps past the first wedding couple I saw another wedding couple and then another couple after that.  I wondered if it was an especially lucky day in the calendar that would bring out all of these couples to the same location to take wedding pictures but after doing a quick google search I found nothing to indicate that day as particularly auspicious.  Then I wondered if it was a photo shoot for a wedding magazine. Some brides were dressed in traditionally western white gowns while most others dressed in red gowns which is a lucky color for the Chinese.  I had to laugh when I saw more than one bride beautifully dressed in flowing white raise up her dress as she walked to her photo shoot and reveal her true style with bright leggings combat boots.  After seeing more than 20 couples in less than half an hour I decided to stop wondering why they were all there and just enjoy the show.

Here's a bit of what I saw:

Temples

Temples have become my refuge when I visit Asian cities.  In China, the traditional neighborhood hutongs and shikumen are being demolished and replaced by ultramodern skyscrapers so finding a place where I can take a trip back in time is harder and harder to find.  

Shinkumen
Hutong






Luckily, even though the Cultural Revolution (1966 - 1976) encouraged the people to become atheists and the Red Guard destroyed temples, churches, mosques, monasteries and cemeteries in their effort to rid China of the traditions they felt were holding them back, many temples have been restored.
Cultural Revolution Poster

Although much of the physical evidence of the various religions (Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity, Islam, etc.) practiced in China was destroyed the actual practice never disappeared.  The government now supports practice of the main religions and has allowed and even assisted in the rebuilding of the old places of worship.  The government in fact has a part in choosing the leaders of the religions practiced in China which causes controversies with Catholicism who recognizes only the Pope as the leader and Tibetan Buddhists who follow the Dali Lama. 

The audio guide to the Yonhe Lamasery for Tibetan Buddhism in Beijing was very interesting in the way the "official" description of how the successor to the Dali Lama will be chosen. They went to great lengths to describe how the instructions for succession that are written on the stone tablets are very "confusing" so the government will step in to assist with the choosing of the rinpoches, or precious leaders (usually reincarnated lamas) who will eventually take over for the Dali Lama.
 Beijing Yonhe Lamasery (Harmony and Peace Palace)

I love the peace and quiet that I find with in the temple grounds.  Usually a large courtyard surrounded by high walls and gardens with a series of traditional style buildings within the courtyard block out the noise and memory of a wild city on the outside.  Depending on the size and importance of the temple there may be as few as one building or up to 20-30 buildings.  Almost all have in incense burners to offer up prayers to the gods and departed loved ones.  Buddhist temples also have fountains where worshippers cleanse their mouths and hands before offering their prayers.  

At a Buddhist temple in Chengdu 
 Wuhou Temple  I heard a monk use a wooden mallet to repeatedly strike a hollowed out wooden fish calling the other monks to eat lunch.  From every corner of the temple complex monks in saffron colored robes appeared and made their way to a communal dining hall.  They chanted for a while before being offered rice, soup and vegetable dishes by the kitchen workers.  Before they started to eat one monk emerged from the hall and using his chopsticks placed some rice on a wooden stand just out side the hall. I imaging this was an offering they make to share their bounty.  

At the Tibetan Lamasery I was also lucky to hear a ceremony taking place. 30 - 40 monks were gathered in the prayer hall chanting while worshippers followed along.The monks sat at small tables with modern reading lights in an ornately painted temple surrounded by prayer poles.  I wanted to take more pictures but I respect the fact that while this is a photo opportunity for me they are allowing me to observe their rituals so I only take pictures when I think I won't disturb anyone. Sometimes I wish I were more brazen and get some of those great shot I sometimes see in National Geographic but I can't bring myself to do it.

Largest Buddha made out of single trunk of White Sandalwood. 

 Here are some pictures of the details I enjoy seeing at these temples.

Roof decorations at Buddhist Temple.

Statue of Confucius looks over 98 stone tablets inscribed with his teachings.

Detail of inscription of the sayings of Confucius.

Detail of inscription of the sayings of Confucius.

Bells in the Drum Tower at the Confucius Temple.

Drum from the Drum Tower at the Temple of  Confucius.

Jade statue of Confucius.

Header for Stone Tablets.