Temples have become my refuge when I visit Asian cities. In China, the traditional neighborhood hutongs and shikumen are being demolished and replaced by ultramodern skyscrapers so finding a place where I can take a trip back in time is harder and harder to find.
Shinkumen
Hutong
Luckily, even though the Cultural Revolution (1966 - 1976) encouraged the people to become atheists and the Red Guard destroyed temples, churches, mosques, monasteries and cemeteries in their effort to rid China of the traditions they felt were holding them back, many temples have been restored.
Cultural Revolution Poster
Although much of the physical evidence of the various religions (Buddhism, Taoism, Christianity, Islam, etc.) practiced in China was destroyed the actual practice never disappeared. The government now supports practice of the main religions and has allowed and even assisted in the rebuilding of the old places of worship. The government in fact has a part in choosing the leaders of the religions practiced in China which causes controversies with Catholicism who recognizes only the Pope as the leader and Tibetan Buddhists who follow the Dali Lama.
The audio guide to the Yonhe Lamasery for Tibetan Buddhism in Beijing was very interesting in the way the "official" description of how the successor to the Dali Lama will be chosen. They went to great lengths to describe how the instructions for succession that are written on the stone tablets are very "confusing" so the government will step in to assist with the choosing of the rinpoches, or precious leaders (usually reincarnated lamas) who will eventually take over for the Dali Lama.
Beijing Yonhe Lamasery (Harmony and Peace Palace)
I love the peace and quiet that I find with in the temple grounds. Usually a large courtyard surrounded by high walls and gardens with a series of traditional style buildings within the courtyard block out the noise and memory of a wild city on the outside. Depending on the size and importance of the temple there may be as few as one building or up to 20-30 buildings. Almost all have in incense burners to offer up prayers to the gods and departed loved ones. Buddhist temples also have fountains where worshippers cleanse their mouths and hands before offering their prayers.
At a Buddhist temple in Chengdu
Wuhou Temple I heard a monk use a wooden mallet to repeatedly strike a hollowed out wooden fish calling the other monks to eat lunch. From every corner of the temple complex monks in saffron colored robes appeared and made their way to a communal dining hall. They chanted for a while before being offered rice, soup and vegetable dishes by the kitchen workers. Before they started to eat one monk emerged from the hall and using his chopsticks placed some rice on a wooden stand just out side the hall. I imaging this was an offering they make to share their bounty.
At the Tibetan Lamasery I was also lucky to hear a ceremony taking place. 30 - 40 monks were gathered in the prayer hall chanting while worshippers followed along.The monks sat at small tables with modern reading lights in an ornately painted temple surrounded by prayer poles. I wanted to take more pictures but I respect the fact that while this is a photo opportunity for me they are allowing me to observe their rituals so I only take pictures when I think I won't disturb anyone. Sometimes I wish I were more brazen and get some of those great shot I sometimes see in National Geographic but I can't bring myself to do it.
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Largest Buddha made out of single trunk of White Sandalwood. |
Here are some pictures of the details I enjoy seeing at these temples.
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Roof decorations at Buddhist Temple. |
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Statue of Confucius looks over 98 stone tablets inscribed with his teachings. |
Detail of inscription of the sayings of Confucius.
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Detail of inscription of the sayings of Confucius. |
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Bells in the Drum Tower at the Confucius Temple. |
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Drum from the Drum Tower at the Temple of Confucius. |
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Jade statue of Confucius. |
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Header for Stone Tablets. |
I learned so much and absolutely LOVED the photos!! I hope I have the opportunity to see them in person one day. Your eye for framing such beautiful photos is matched only by the eloquent way to tell their story. Keep blogging!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sandra, I hope we can visit some of these places together! I'll try to get better at this and add more links to make it more interesting for anyone who wants to see more info about the places on the blog.
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